Wednesday 5
We wake to another fog rolling by. The sun looks like a silver oyster behind it trying to pierce through as it rises. The views from our tent some mornings are just breathtaking – this was another one. We have to pinch ourselves at times, just to make sure it is not a dream. Every so I often I awake, not remembering where I am, or what way we are facing. I open my eyes in a panic, take a quick look, then drop my head on the pillow telling myself, “Ahh that’s right”.
Packing up again after so many days spent doing nothing in the mornings, apart from rolling out of bed and eating breakfast, seems strange. I’m in the tent packing the bedding, folding the tent up and strapping it down, packing away chairs and everything else. We had decided to change the view. The wife was getting restless with the one we had, and apparently the dark red sand was bothering. So we opted to spend our last night on the beach in white sand.
As we were packing up, an older couple with their caravan set up behind us. There were that many spots along the coast that were private and were available, we were puzzled as to why they chose to set up less than 30 meters away! We have found ‘caravaners’ don’t quite fit into the ‘camping’ community folk. They tend to fall into their own category – this being the ‘glamping’ folk. A different breed of people, ones that want to see the sites, but do it with all the mod-cons; toilets and showers included. With all this extra fancy stuff comes a rather odd arrogance, sometimes having no concern to others around them and acting in a slightly superior manner. Now I’m not accusing all to be like this, but as we have found on this trip, a large majority of ‘caravaners’ do fall into this category.
We hurried along leaving the intruders to our over-used view in paradise. Back along the track, we counted off the number of other locations they could of chosen. All along Quondong Point were bays free with cliff top views and privacy from peering neighbourhood eyes. I could of counted fifty. “Those pesky caravaners” I muttered. Next time it happens, I’m going to walk around naked. See if that deters them.
Not even 10 kilometres south, we had the whole stretch of beach and rolling dunes to ourselves. We ended up getting bogged along the way as we searched for ‘the perfect spot’. Window half down, I put the right foot to the floor. The front wheel spun, mud terrains acting like a shovel chucked up half the beach through my open window. I was covered – so was everything else. Cath bought us new sheepskin woollen seat covers for the trip. Well, I can tell you that they were a mission to get the sand out of – even with the Dyson vacuum cleaner Cath had bought me for Christmas. Bottoming the ute out and sitting on the diff’s, I had to grab the shovel. Out it came and here we were digging for the first time this trip. What fun you can have getting bogged. Its one of those thing that really makes traversing tough terrain enjoyable – getting out. I aired down the tyres even more. 14psi in the front and 16psi in the rear. We popped out straight away. A few more meters down the beach with our spot found, we were setup. That night we were even able to have a shower without getting our feet dirty. I have to say, it was such an unbelievable spot.
Thursday 6-8
Back into the normal rhythm of life, packing up our mobile off-road home once again, we were heading to Broome.
We had our Steed booked into a mechanic for a quick check over our suspension. Driving into town we noticed the squeak return once again from the rear. We pointed it out to the mechanic and surprise surprise, it was the rear wheel bearing. Darn it. We got it re-scheduled in for the following morning. I was told that if I was ever going to do one wheel bearing, that I should always do the other side at the same time.
We spent the day wandering around town, checking out the shops and with the heat bearing down on us ended up at The Mangrove Hotel for lunch. I kid you not, this place had the most incredible stunning beach/mangrove view I have ever seen. White sand sitting under the brightest turquoise coloured water that stretched out into the ocean for hundreds of metres. It hands down would be one of the greatest beach views in Australia! We sat and had lunch soaking up the view and waited for the call to come and pick up the ute.
With the ute complete and back in our hands with two new rear wheel bearings, we made our way to view some dinosaur foot prints, incased in the sand stone rocks at the end of Cable Beach. We then finished up the day with a well deserved swim back at the Broome Caravan Park. What an incredible day we had!
The next day we were on the road heading south once again. Cath for her birthday had booked into Eco Beach Resort to celebrate it. But was unable to get into until Sunday, so we had a day up our sleeve to kill. The plan was to find a beach just south of Broome for the night. We scanned google earth and found a couple of sites suitable. That was until we got there. Every road off towards the beach was gated. Private stations dotted along the coast. Unable to get to the beach we investigated on the map to another suitable place to camp. The map showed flood plains all the way along the south coast and protected Aboriginal land took up the map nearly until Port Hedland. Bollox we thought. We found a four-wheel drive track that veered off the main road and headed towards the ocean. We decided to take the chance of finding a remote killer spot and adventured down it. Unfortunately we found ourselves at what looked like an old abandoned community, with just two houses that looked as if no one could live in them among other various objects such as old cars and a phone box. Out of luck, we turned around and made our way back out on the side of the highway to spend the night. Once out of the ute, I noticed a huge amount of heat coming from the rear drivers side tyre. It was boiling, far too hot to touch. My first reaction was that the wheel bearing had gone. “Ohh for goodness sake” Cath said. “We just don’t have time to turn around and make our way all the way to Broome!”
“I know babe but if we keep going we have to pay someone else to sort it out, we should definitely take it back. Monday morning I’ll call them” I replied. Praying that they had the space to get it in on the Monday we went to bed.
Sunday 9
I woke to the sound of a passing road train. “Wakie, wakie” I said to Cath. We were up and on our way rather quickly this morning. The thought of an ensuite and air conditioning beckoned. We checked in and arrived to a free bottle of bubbly in our eco villa. Even though it was not actually Cath’s birthday yet, we celebrated it anyway and took the bottle of bubbly for a later date.
Down on the beach we found a small cabana with hammocks. “Well well well, that’s my kind of cuppa-T there babe!” I said. A dip in the ocean followed by laying in the hammock watching youtube videos due to the free wifi we were set for the day. We even got cheeky take away chips to seal the deal.
A couple of family’s rocked up from around the headland on a boat. They waded in carrying kids over their shoulders and made there way up to the restaurant we presumed for lunch. The owner parked up further out, dropped anchor and swam in to join them. Well I’m not sure if you know, but up here in this part of the world the tides are some of the largest – rising so high and low it is incredible how fast they move in and out from the shore. An hour passed and where the guy parked his boat in water deep enough he was unable to touch the bottom, was now sitting on the sand… beached. We watched as he ran down, shocked at what had happened. The poor other family’s had made there way down and were standing on the beach looking out in disbelief. This was at 2 o’clock in the afternoon. The tide was not going to be back and high enough to lift the boat up until at least 9-10pm that night. Poor buggers, they couldn’t of picked a better spot to get beached though. They took full use of the situation and made their way to the bar where we saw them drowning their sorrows with beer later on.
Dinner for us was cooked up in the carpark and then rushed into our villa for consumption. Anyone on-looking would have wondered what the hell we were doing. But we’re on a budget – mince and tacos was a great way to enjoy it. I even got to do the washing up in a proper sink for once! Weeheeyy… I know right!
Monday 10
“895 KWH on the solar panel yesterday babe! That’s a record”
“Only cos of my epic parking yesterday” Cath replied. We have a battery management system that regulates all our batteries and 12v system we have in the rig. It gives a read out of all the different information including how many watts we are getting from our solar panel that is mounted on the roof of our cab. Because it’s permanently fixed, it is always best to be facing north when parked up and away from any trees that may cast a shadow. Day to day the amount of power the panel makes varies, but yesterday was the record so far on this trip. Cath had moved the ute to a north facing car park for the day. Silly to some, but we find it interesting monitoring it from day to day as we go along.
We had got up early this morning, Cath was keen for yoga on the beach. Well not quite on the beach, but in a room overlooking the beach with the sound of waves in the background. I was a little hesitant to get out of bed and give it a go. I had slept the whole night through un-disturbed for the first time this trip. Usually there is a truck passing by, a person talking or some kind of animal rustling around that wakes me. Now finally with a wall on each side, I slept like a baby.
We arrived, tired eyes and unsure of what to expect, late of course due to me being dragged from my warm bed. Everyone in the room was laying on the floor eyes shut and the instructor, crossed legged at the front watching on with the sound of praying repeatedly playing in the background. “Get a mat, and please join us. This is the sound of Hindu monks praying. It is the fastest way to enlightenment. Breathe deep into your belly, relax and clear your mind only concentrating on your breath”. Righto, I thought. This is going to be one strange ride but I was ready for it. Laying on the floor with the sound of waves and monks I can get used to. I’ll be good at this…. Until it started. She got us into all these positions and made us hold them there. Telling us over and over again to “Breathe in through your nose and out through your mouth slow and deep. Concentrate on just your breath. You’re not doing it right, if the movement is not in time with your breath”. My body had other plans.
My heart was pounding and my shoulders and core were tiring. This was brutal… it was a proper work out! I couldn’t control my breath.
I wanted to pant like a dog. Struggling to keep quiet in this peaceful room of stretchy slow-breathing zenned people. It sure was a great way to start the day; dog positions that we had to hold for what seemed an eternity that made my shoulders burn and tremble. Warrior position and some other weird hold-an-invisible-ball-above-your-head-while-sitting-on-an-invisible-chair position. I was told, “Its fun, you’ll be fine, it wont be tough”, well what I was told and what I was undertaking were two completely different things! “Jesus Christ, that was a brutal work out! I thought yoga was easy? Holding those positions for ages. I never normally do that. It was so darn challenging. Were you puffing? I was so puffing! How good was the end when she made us lay down with our eyes shut. She gave me a head massage! Did you get one too?” I said to Cath.
“Yeh babe, I think everyone got one”. I loved it. I will definitely be doing that again. I now have a new understanding and respect for yoga, one that I never had before. Apart from all the hippy crap, it was a great way to stretch and work out. Sign me up when we get home!
“Bob mate its Johny, the guy with the Hilux and the wheel bearings. Mate we drove down to Eco beach on the Saturday and I noticed that there was a tonne of heat, too hot to touch coming from the rear drivers side mate”.
“Ok mate bring it in, we’ll need to have a look at it for you”. We were 150 kilometres South of Broome, so it was a big way back on ourselves, but it had to be done. We needed them to sort out whatever was going on with the rear. Once we had arrived, they thankfully looked at it straight away. Bob had found that the rear hand brake adjustment locking lug had stayed up. With this out the way, the brake had wound itself on slowly. Making the brake apply pressure more and more with every turn. They wound it back and locked it in place. Not sure if it was something they had forgotten or it genuinely had un-latched – but it was fixed and we were on the road again heading south once more.
We had to make up some miles again from our back tracking, so we decided we would push on past where we had scheduled to stay that night and make up some distance. Cath jumped on wikicampers and found a spot 500 meters off the road. Well, what a killer spot. We arrived to other people nabbing the first spots nearest the road. Unaware if there were any more spots, we found a track that lead off around a corner and behind a hill. We followed it to find a concrete pad that once had housed a large building of some description, possibly a pad for a mining office perhaps.
It was luxury!
Normally we find ourselves slightly un-level, sleeping at a tilt and in dirt. But this was perfect – level and no dirt. It was fantastic, far away from everyone with peace and quiet for the night. What a spot!
The Cooks.
TotallyCookd. 